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	<title>steve cooley presents &#187; blacktoe</title>
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		<title>blacktoe cnc usage: silicone casting mold</title>
		<link>http://www.sc-fa.com/blog/2010/05/24/blacktoe-cnc-usage-silicone-casting-mold/</link>
		<comments>http://www.sc-fa.com/blog/2010/05/24/blacktoe-cnc-usage-silicone-casting-mold/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 03:09:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve Cooley Fine Art</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blacktoe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[casting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cnc]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[industrial design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[machinable wax]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[project]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sculpture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[silicone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tools]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.sc-fa.com/blog/?p=425</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[alrighty, then.. so I&#8217;m starting to get my bearings with how all the software works to run jobs through the blacktoe CNC router. I switched from cambam over to sheetcam and now I&#8217;m getting really good results. There&#8217;s still a certain amount of strangeness, probably all my fault, so I&#8217;m still learning what works and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>alrighty, then.. so I&#8217;m starting to get my bearings with how all the software works to run jobs through the blacktoe CNC router.  I switched from cambam over to sheetcam and now I&#8217;m getting really good results.  There&#8217;s still a certain amount of strangeness, probably all my fault, so I&#8217;m still learning what works and what doesn&#8217;t.  Here&#8217;s a video I did to show how the blacktoe does with machinable wax:</p>
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<p>The end result is a mold to use for casting translucent silicone into for use in my <a href="http://beatseqr.com">beatseqr</a> project, as a replacement for the hand-cut-and-sanded acrylic buttons that I&#8217;m currently using.  You never know how an experiment will really go until it&#8217;s over, and now that this experiment is over, I&#8217;ve learned a lot and will make a bunch of adjustments:</p>
<p>1. change the silicone product from tap plastics platinum cure translucent (way too wobbly for this application) to smooth-on sorta clear 40.  I saw this product at the Maker Faire this past weekend and really liked the firm quality of the cured product.  I think it will be a really good candidate. Smooth-on dragon skin 30 was my second-best candidate.<br />
2. cut a new button mold using the techniques I&#8217;ve learned by doing this one.<br />
3. adjust the height of the button to be not as tall as this test.<br />
4. adjust the flashing surrounding the buttons to be not nearly as tall.  I had it set to be 0.1&#8243; tall, and that&#8217;s probably 0.08&#8243; too much.  all I need is for it to basically be thick enough to keep all of the buttons together, and that&#8217;s it.<br />
5. think about how to diffuse the LED light going into the button&#8230;  this new silicone is water-clear&#8230; so &#8230; I&#8217;ll need a way to adjust that quality so it looks good. maybe just a sheet of paper under the silicone flashing&#8230; we&#8217;ll see how that goes.  </p>
<p>So&#8230; progress continues.  I&#8217;ll post the result of the next prototype when it&#8217;s done.</p>
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